Konsensus

// Bilderna visar Emelie Holmén på Dub i Utby. //

Vi kom att tala om grader häromdagen. Jag vet, inget superfräscht ämne som känns nytt och piggt men ha tålamod, det finns en poäng. Samtalet rörde sig inte kring gradering i ett övergripande perspektiv utan snarare i relation till slarv, lathet och, framförallt, feghet.

Vi som registrerar våra bestigningar på Internet har ju en härlig vision om att när tillräckligt många gjort det och därmed gett sitt gradförslag kommer vi till slut nå konsensus. Sanningen. Fakta. ”Majoritetens röst har talat, detta problem är 6B+.”

Naturligtvis har vi alla vår helt subjektiva idé om hur svårt något är, allt relaterat till längd, styrka, stil, smak, friktion, stenkvalitet, humör, självsäkerhet, mental (o)balans, vighet, värme, kyla, luftfuktighet, stentyp… ändå tycks vi tycka precis lika om de allra flesta problem vad gäller grad. Märkligt, eller hur?

Voodoo i Utby har jag många gånger hört benämnas som ”benchmark 7A”. Lika många gånger har jag hört att ”det måste ju vara en av de svåraste i sin grad någonsin”. Ändå, när vi går in och tittar på GBO och på 27crags, har ett fåtal föreslagit en hårdare grad. 

Ok visst, alla klättrare glider inte in i narcissismens fälla (likt jag själv) och registrerar sina bestigningar på Internet. Samlar sina troféer i glasmontrar. Däremot vet jag att jag många gånger personligen reggat problem samtidigt som jag i besvikelse tänkt ”jaha… var den inte hårdare än så?”. Som om andra bestämmer vilken min upplevelse är. Som om min upplevelse är felaktig.

Många (igen, likt jag själv) lägger till en kommentar i stil med ”denna var jättesvår för mig”, men går ändå gradgudens ärenden.

Varför är det nu så? Jag kan givetvis bara utgå ifrån mig själv, men jag vill mena att det till stor del handlar om feghet. Rädslan att bli avslöjad som svag är så kraftfull att vi hellre förstärker bilden av problem som lättare än att framstå som veka och gnälliga individer. Vi vill inte ha fel. Inte sticka ut.

Precis som fåret i skocken. Precis som den nyförlösta mamman som matas med bilden av att det går att vara smal som en sticka och fast som en rodnande persika bara en vecka efter nedkomst och därför stävar efter det (trots att hon vet att det är fullständigt orimligt). Precis som mannen som inte är en (”riktig”) man om han inte kan hålla tillbaka gråten. Eller han som inte är en äkta alfahane om han är oförmögen att leverera en stenhård högerkrok. Eller som inredningsinfluensern på Instagram som målar upp bilden av det sjukligt fläckfria hemmet utan tillstymmelse till varken knäckebrödssmulor i sängen eller tandkrämsstänk på spegeln.

Och vilket är ansvaret hos oss alla? Är det så att vi underhåller en kultur som snarare skrämmer bort än välkomnar andra synpunkter än de starka få? Har vi skapat ett klimat där de som inte håller med graderingsförslagen helt enkelt låter bli att säga sitt? Kan vi bygga en mer välkomnande community och hur skulle det gå till? 

För visst är det så att vi gång på gång skriver under kontraktet om all tings orimlighet. Ständigt matar vi myten om oss själva som oövervinnerliga supermänniskor som kan göra karriär, städa, laga ny härlig mat, älska våra barn, gå ner i spagat. Ständigt och helt utan verklighetsförankring.

Så, kanske är det ändå värt att våga? Våga bumpa upp den där graden för att du faktiskt inte håller med föregående talare. Våga göra skäl för onlineguidernas själva existens. Vad ska vi annars med konsensus till?

/Kim



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    För några år sedan tror jag att jag tycker det var lättare att gradera. Vi flera olika tillfällen har jag klättrat om problem och då haft en andra eller tredje chans att fundera kring både betyg och grad. De tillfällen då jag väntat länge nog har jag släppt hela iden kring prestationen i bestigningen och tror mig ha lättare att säga, nyktert, vad jag tycker.

    En annan sak jag funderat på kring grader är att en ”4:a-klättrare” har svårt att gradera et 7:a men undra om inte de omvända också gäller. Jag anser mig själv ha lättast att gradera (och betygsätta) de sakerna som är nått snäpp under mitt max….

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